The Estée Lauder Companies Shares New Skin and Hair Biology Findings at the 83rd Annual Meeting of the Society of Investigative Dermatology
New research, from plant-derived exosome ingredient soothing activity to the impact of scalp changes on hair longevity, highlights advances across skin and scalp science,
Press Release, May 28, 2026
NEW YORK, NY – May 28, 2026 –The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (NYSE: EL) announced that the company and several of its brands presented a range of novel findings at the 83rd Society of Investigative Dermatology meeting, held this month in Chicago. The poster presentations reflect a strong portfolio of prestige beauty and skin care brands effectively translating biological learnings and progressive research efforts into meaningful innovation, including better methods to care for skin and hair.
“The Estée Lauder Companies remains at the forefront of skin and hair research, advancing our understanding of the biological mechanisms that influence skin and scalp health,” said Claude Saliou, PhD, Senior Vice President, Advanced Technologies and Global Consumer and Clinical Sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies. “The findings presented reflect our continued focus on translating rigorous scientific research into transformative innovation with consumer-centric benefits.”
Additional poster details highlighting key data are as follows:
Title: Potent plant exosome helps reduce inflammation and restore skin homeostasis
Presenter: Kelly Dong, Principal Scientist, Advanced Technologies, The Estée Lauder Companies
Key Takeaways:
- Emerging evidence suggests that intercellular communication mechanisms, including exosome-mediated signaling, play a key role in coordinating skin recovery by facilitating rapid cellular communication and modulation of inflammatory pathways.
- Plant-derived exosomes represent a scientifically robust alternative to human exosomes, sharing key characteristics while offering advantages in scalability, stability, and sourcing for topical skin research.
- Reconstructed skin models were exposed to different stressors and then treated with a plant-derived exosome ingredient. Treatment significantly reduced inflammatory markers, supporting a role for plant-derived exosomes in promoting recovery and restoring skin homeostasis.
Title: A comparative study of the effects of a proprietary collagen boosting complex and retinol on collagen I expression level using ex vivo skin
Presenter: Binwei Deng, Fellow, Advanced Technologies, The Estée Lauder Companies
Key Takeaways:
- As skin ages, there is a progressive loss and fragmentation of collagen I, leading to reduced skin thickness and biomechanical strength.
- The aim of this study is to evaluate the activity of a proprietary collagen boosting complex on the expression of collagen I and tissue viability on ex-vivo skin compared to retinol.
- The study showed a proprietary collagen boosting complex is more potent than retinol in improving collagen production and preserving the tissue viability decreased by UV irradiation.
Title: Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing serum demonstrates efficacy in addressing rosacea, eczema, and extreme sensitive skin
Presenter: Lisa DiNatale, Director, Clinical Testing (Skincare), La Mer Max Huber Research Laboratories
Key Takeaways:
- The study showed the macrocystis pyrifera ferment supports skin barrier repair and improves hydration, confirmed by reduced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
- The ferment also modulates neuroinflammatory pathways via preservation of paracannabinoid signaling (LEA).
- It clinically reduces erythema, dryness, itching, and improves overall skin tolerability.
- The ferment demonstrates efficacy in sensitive, rosacea- and eczema-prone skin, including extreme sensitivity.
Title: Drivers of female scalp aging: profiling dermal fibroblasts to identify their potential role in hair follicle longevity
Presenter: Richard Baker, Research Assistant at Centre for Skin Sciences, University of Bradford
Key Takeaways:
- Aging scalp fibroblasts show distinct molecular profiles, with clear “young” vs. “aged” subpopulations.
- Age-related shifts include increased inflammation, fibrosis, senescence, and reduced metabolic activity.
- Altered signaling pathways (e.g., ECM dysfunction, angiogenesis, apoptosis) impair follicle cycling and tissue remodeling.
- Aged fibroblasts may shorten the hair growth cycle and contribute to hair thinning and reduced hair longevity.
Title: How does skin sensitivity and age impact cowhage-induced itchiness: An observational study
Presenter: Qihong Zhang, Principal Scientist, Global Clinical and Consumer Sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies
Key Takeaways:
- Nearly all participants (92%) experienced itch from cowhage – a plant-based itch model commonly used in research to trigger non-histaminergic itch responses – but individuals with self-identified sensitive skin showed stronger and longer-lasting itch responses.
- The gap in itch intensity and duration between sensitive and non-sensitive skin becomes more pronounced with age, indicating older individuals may be more reactive to non-histaminergic itch triggers.
- The study supports using validated measures (BoSS questionnaire and VAS scales) to more precisely segment sensitive skin populations—helping improve subject selection and product testing.
Title: Skin health during perimenopause
Presenter: Paolo Palacio Mancheno, Pincipal Scientist, Global Clinical and Consumer Sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies
Key Takeaways:
- Perimenopause symptom severity is linked to poorer sleep, not higher stress, and sleep disruption appears to be a key factor during this transition independent of age.
- Women with more severe perimenopause symptoms show changes in skin hydration and barrier function, suggesting early shifts in skin biology before typical menopausal dryness.
- Perimenopause alters how skin ages, highlighting a unique window for targeted skincare solutions distinct from pre- and post-menopausal needs.
Around the world, ELC is dedicated to cutting-edge science with multidisciplinary expertise ranging from basic science and advanced technologies to the intersections of physics, chemistry, biology, and engineering. ELC R&I has 80 years of formulation authority and is deeply integrated into the scientific community, regularly presenting at leading events and publishing in peer-reviewed journals. ELC’s R&D team consistently aims to develop the next generation of transformative, science-driven prestige beauty products, packaging, and experiences that deliver exceptional quality and performance for our consumers around the world.
About The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.
The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers, and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance, and hair care products, and is a steward of luxury and prestige brands globally. The company’s products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories under brand names including: Estée Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, Lab Series, Origins, M·A·C, La Mer, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Darphin Paris, TOM FORD, Smashbox, AERIN Beauty, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, GLAMGLOW, KILIAN PARIS, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, the DECIEM family of brands, including The Ordinary and NIOD, and BALMAIN Beauty.
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